Patek Philippe Complications 5172G-001

The new Classic Chrono, the Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G

Describing the 5172G as an ‘important’ watch for Patek Philippe is an understatement. It is a crucial watch, one that must please long-term collectors, true aficionados of the brand who know what the simple hand-wound chronograph represents at Patek… However, Patek is a company and as such, has to gain new customers too. The market for high-end chronographs is crowded; JLC, Vacheron, Breguet, Blancpain, Chopard LUC and Lange are all fighting on this battlefield. Competition is harsh and Patek has to innovate, but at the same time Patek has to please a conservative clientele too. That’s a tall order for the 5172G.

Patek Philippe has redesigned its chronograph of classic architecture for men (column wheel, horizontal clutch and manual winding), endowing it with a new white gold case with round guilloched pushers and three-tier lugs.

Its subtle vintage allure is underscored by a sapphire-crystal “box” glass. The dial also sports an all-new look with a blue background and contrast luminescent white gold applied Arabic numerals and hands.

Let’s take a look at the case. In terms of proportions, Patek Philippe slightly increases the diameter to 41mm – versus 39.4mm for the 5170 models – to make this watch slightly more casual, a bit sportier, a bit more modern, but not oversized either. The profile remains relatively slim at 11mm and the watch wears great on most men’s wrists. I could live with a 39mm case but apparently, the market required a slightly bigger watch.

The main evolution concerns the shape. Abandoning the classic Calatrava-shaped case of the 5170, this watch adopts the superbly styled lugs of the 5320. Just like the perpetual calendar, Patek adds a slight Art Deco touch with triple-stepped horns inspired by a relatively rare reference (the 2405, a simple 3-hand watch from the 1940s), yet with a very specific case with gadroons and triple-stepped claw lugs. These are, to me, the main attraction of this watch and give it an incredible charm. The case has sharp facets, straight lines and angles but never feels aggressive. Very elegant, slightly different… Mastered!

This traditional, hand-wound, bi-compax chronograph movement was an important milestone for the brand when introduced on the 5170J. Indeed, it was the first men’s watch of the collection to feature this new movement (that also serves as a base for the 5204, the 5270 and the 5370). This is a modern movement (wheels with patented tooth profiles, self-adjusting hammers, a modern 4Hz frequency, a variable inertia balance wheel and 65 hours of power reserve) and is finished with great care (hand-chamfered and polished edges, Geneva stripes, circular graining, gold chatons, perfectly finished levers… attested by the Patek seal).